Wine Finds

A Good Value

2009-02-09T18:23:00.000-08:00

Tough times call for a bit of belt-tightening. Never one to sacrifice quality for price, I'm excited to say that you can enjoy high-quality wine and keep within your budget. Here's a recommendation on an excellent, value-priced wine that I'm enjoying right now.

Bodegas Alto Almanzora Este Tinto 2006
I found this on an end-aisle display at the massive Applejack Wine & Spirits shop in Wheat Ridge, Colorado. Normally selling for $9.99, Applejack was running it on special at $8.99. I have a fondness for Spanish wines, so I gave it a second look. The 90-point rating from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate didn't hurt either. To make a long story short, this is some righteously good juice!

The aroma is beguiling, with layered fruit mingled with cedar-y perfume and camphor. Dark purple in color, the proprietary blend is reputedly heavy in Monastrell (Mourvedre), with a bit of Tempranillo, Grenache, and a few other varieties. The fruit is heavy, but seamless in the mid-palate, finishing off relatively strong and long. This wine would pair well with strongly-flavored foods. I'd be interested in trying it with some savory sausages or a good, hearty winter stew.

Point Ratings Run Amok!

2008-12-15T15:21:00.001-08:00

I've been visiting wine stores in the Denver area, and I had a chance to visit a new store 15 miles south of downtown. There are a lot of "superstores" here that carry wine, beer, and hard liquor, and this place was like that - they had about 4,000 wine facings, and I took some time to peruse their wine offerings. I was reminded again of the famous saying, "caveat emptor", or "let the buyer beware".

It's common practice for wine stores to put up "shelf talkers", small tags that hang on the shelf below a bottle and describe the wine. A lot of the time, the shelf talker includes a rating from one of the well-known wine publications (Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, etc.). Most of the rating systems are based on a 100-point scale, with higher scores indicating higher quality wines (in the studied opinion of the reviewer). Ratings serve as good general guidelines when selecting a bottle of wine. Unless the listed ratings are patently false, incorrect, or out of date.

While looking through the Spanish wine selections, I was happy to see a familiar wine, Vina Borgia Garnacha. This is a simple, young Grenache imported by Jorge Ordonez. The bottle typically sells for $8 or less, and this shop had it priced at $6.99. I was flabbergasted when I noticed the shelf talker with the 96-point rating from Wine Spectator. A quick check on the internet shows that it received 85 points from Wine Spectator. I asked a sales person about it, but she didn't know anything, so I moved on. I noticed another 96-point wine, Paso a Paso tinto. This is another Spanish wine I'm familiar with, and it scores in the high 80s at best. An $8 Greek wine down the way had a 97-point rating. Something was clearly amiss.

I spoke with the Wine Manager and found out that the shop's suppliers provided the shelf talkers. I'll give the suppliers the benefit of the doubt and assume that they had cut-and-paste issues, rather than outright dishonesty issues. In any event, it gives one pause to consider. If you're using point ratings to narrow down your search for a good bottle of wine, keep these things in mind:

Compare the vintage on the shelf talker with the vintage of the bottle of wine on the shelf. If the vintages are different, then the rating is not useful. In the case of the shop that I visited, the shelf talkers didn't include vintage, so none of them were really useful.

Consider the rating agency. You may find your palate runs counter to a given publication, in which case its rating won't help you. Read several of these publications, try a few of their recommendations, and see how their tastes match yours.

Don't shy away from a wine if it garners less than 90 points (or some other arbitrary cutoff). The aforementioned Vina Borgia only scored 85 points, but it is a perfectly acceptable, pleasant, and inexpensive everyday wine.

Don't assume that you'll like highly-rated wines. In the end, it's up to your palate to decide.

If an inexpensive wine (under $10) has a relatively high rating (over 90 points), you might want to investigate further. There are some excellent quality, inexpensive wines that are highly rated, but they are the exception.

Take point ratings with a grain of salt and a bit of skepticism. Let your palate decide, because in the end, that's all that's important.

Viva Las Vegas!

2008-12-05T07:24:00.000-08:00

I'm nearly recovered from a week in Las Vegas. It had been eight years or more since I had been there, and it had changed, becoming bigger and more brash than I remember. A dangerous place for a guy like me, but a much needed respite.

I'm a bit underemployed (OK, unemployed!) right now, so I kept hotel costs to a minimum in order to concentrate my meager funds on gambling, drinking and eating. The economy's put a hurt on Vegas, and most nights I was able to get a clean, comfortable room for less than $30, which is quite a bargain. The most memorable of my accommodations was The Plaza Hotel in old, historic downtown Las Vegas. While I'm all for historic preservation, in the case of The Plaza, I think it should be cleaned up or blown up. The hallways to the room were dirty and the room itself was barely passable, with burned matches littering the floor, even though it was a “non-smoking” room. Given that I found an unspent 45-caliber bullet on the bedside table (seriously, no joke), perhaps the previous occupants were smoking something other than cigarettes.

I splurged on dinner one night a The Strip House, a swanky steak joint in the Planet Hollywood Hotel and Casino. The restaurant features bone-in steaks grilled to perfection, and my 22-ounce bone-in ribeye was prepared nicely. You can get nearly anything you want in Vegas if you're willing to pay for it, and the wine stocks at this restaurant and nearly any other in the city run broad and deep. However, at $15 and up for glass pours, I was having trouble picking something to go with dinner. Fortunately, they offered half-bottles at prices that seemed doable if you didn't think about it too much. I ended up with a half-bottle of Trefethen 2004 Oak Knoll District Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was sublime, stealing the show away from the steak. Rich and powerful black cherry and cassis flavors were wrapped in these luscious, velvety tannins that carried the flavors through to a long, satisfying finish. At $54 the half-bottle, perhaps I should have just ordered up a full bottle! Nice dinner, fantastic wine.

If the Trefethen piqued your interest, stop in to Little Sonoma and pick up a bottle of Trefethen's Double T. It's one of the owner's favorite wines and almost always in stock. If you're heading to Vegas in the near future and have any questions I may be able to answer, drop me a line. Until then, sip some fine wine.

Wine in the Land of Beer

2008-11-26T12:33:00.000-08:00

I'm in Denver, Colorado now, and if you've ever been to Colorado, you know that it's home to dozens of microbreweries and host of the annual Great American Beer Festival. While I am an admitted wine guy, I also lean pretty heavily in favor of beer, so I've been sampling the wares of the land.

I've long been a fan of India Pale Ale (IPA), a beer that typically exhibits a large measure of hoppiness, not to be confused with happiness, although most IPAs do bring happiness to the drinker. I like the hoppy, tart, and strong flavors of a good IPA. My favorite Colorado IPA is Odell Brewing Company's India Pale Ale. Extremely aromatic, with a wonderfully hoppy nose and complex flavors that linger long after the sip. This beer one a Gold Medal at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival and a Gold Medal at the 2008 World Beer Cup®. If you want something a bit less hoppy and more malty, give the 90 Shilling a shot. It's another favorite of mine. Odell is based in Fort Collins about an hour north of Denver.

Last night I was in the mood for a strong Belgian ale. I lingered at the imports section of the local beer store, but my conscience got the best of me, so I stepped down to the U.S. microbrew section. How could I have forgotten about my old love, the New Belgium Brewing Company?! Clearly I have been away from Colorado for too long. I picked up New Belgium's Trippel Belgian-style Ale. Trippel (also Tripel or Triple) ale is a strong brew that is typically high in alcohol. New Belgium Trippel carries 7.8% alcohol by volume and golden-amber in color with a profuse, creamy-white head. A bit of sweetness on the nose, with fresh, citrus flavors. I've also had a chance to try New Belgium's 2 Below Winter Ale, a good brew that'll keep you warm all winter long. New Belgium is most recognized for its Fat Tire Amber Ale, another extremely solid offering. New Belgium is based in Fort Collins.

I've tried too many other beers to enumerate here, but suffice it to say that Colorado is producing world-class beers.

I have had the opportunity to drink a bottle or three of wine while visiting Denver. One that stands out in my mind is Chateau Pesquie 2005 Cotes-du-Ventoux Les Terrasses, a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Deep purple in color, with rich, ripe aromas and flavors, the wine finishes long and strong. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rates this wine 92 points. I paid about $12 retail in Denver. Cheers!

The Wandering Wine Guy Reports From the Field

2008-11-09T09:43:00.000-08:00

I wanted to drop a line and let everyone know what I've been up to these last several weeks.

I've been away from Cincinnati for a bit less than a month now, and I've traveled through seven states – Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota. At this rate, I'll have traveled the entire United States by Spring! Wasn't really my intention, but things happen. In large part, I blame my GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) system. I named her Christine, a la Stephen King's horror story about a possessed car. The damn thing keeps trying to drive me into brick walls and dark, dead-end streets!

On a more (or less, depending on how you look at it) fortuitous note, the GPS sent me within twenty miles of Tunica, Mississippi, the Southeast's premier gambling mecca. Needless to stay, I stopped to tempt lady luck. She had her way with me.

I am happy to report that Shawn & Jennifer Welch, formerly of Cincinnati and regulars at Little Sonoma, are alive and well in Fayetteville, Arkansas. Fayetteville, by the way, is an enchanting mid-sized city that lands on many “Best Cities” lists. Home to several billionaires compliments of its proximity to Wal-Mart's home city (Bentonville), Fayetteville has a diverse culture and the student-infused spirit of an active college town. The Welches have landed themselves in an absolutely beautiful home replete with a disco hot tub. Fortunately, they honored my tender sensibilities by keeping their clothes on when we went “tubbing” in the evenings. We put a hurt on several bottles of wine, including the 2005 vintages of Bogle Phantom and Veramonte Primus, both of which I strongly recommend.

After a week with the Welches, I had to find a spot to “dry out”, and I ended up in Des Moines, Iowa. If you've never been to Des Moines, you might be as surprised as I was. Lots of action in downtown, especially along Court Avenue in the old warehouse district. If you're down there, have a pint or three of the locally brewed beer available at Court Avenue Brewing Company, really yummy stuff! I stayed in West Des Moines, which was a very nice upscale area with copious shopping and dining opportunities. The local wine shop scene in Des Moines is pretty lame. There are a few wine/beer/liquor stores, but nothing too upscale as far as I could tell.

I'm in Minneapolis now, enjoying my sister's hospitality. She lives in a massive loft in the historic warehouse district, the hippest scene in the city. This place has more than all of the conveniences of home – big-screen TV, Wii, movies on demand, an outdoor deck (useful for checking the current accumulation of snow), and people who like to cook! Minneapolis, often dubbed the “Mini Apple” (versus NYC, the Big Apple), has a lot of culture, with endless dining and entertainment opportunities. I hit the aptly named Hell's Kitchen on Halloween morning, a nice way to start what would turn out to be a raucous, fun-filled day. I dressed up for Halloween and went to the local pubs with my nephew and a friend. Saturday morning came too soon.

The wine scene is pretty vibrant in Minneapolis. There are two wine bars (Bev's Wine Bar and Toast Wine Bar & Cafe) within two blocks of my sister's loft and many more further out. The retail liquor/wine/beer stores are well-stocked, although some of my favorites from Little Sonoma aren't on hand. Surdyk's is a local institution in the downtown area, with Haskell's being another favorite. Lots of smaller wine shops dot the landscapes of the surrounding neighborhoods and cities.

I haven't found gainful employment yet, so if anyone out there in the ether knows of any available wine jobs, please drop me a direct email at thewineguy@ix.netcom.com. I think I'll wander a bit more, but I won't be surprised if I end up back in the “mini apple”. Yes, it snows a lot, and yes, it's cold for several months of the year, but it also garnered the #3 spot on the Forbes Best Cities for Singles list, and I'm a ramblin' man looking to settle down. Besides, they have 2-for-1 happy hours pretty much every day of the week!

Until next time, See, Swirl, Sniff, and Sip.

Restrictive Wine Sampling Laws Impair Business

2008-10-25T10:48:00.000-07:00

I recently sold my house in Cincinnati, left my "Wine Guy" job at Little Sonoma wine shop in West Chester, and hit the road in search of new adventures. So far I've traveled through Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi. I'm visiting friends in Fayetteville, Arkansas now, and if you haven't been to this northwestern part of Arkansas, I highly recommend it.

I like to visit wine stores in different parts of the country. It's amazing how the laws in the various states affect the wine trade. The Arkansas Legislature has enacted a law that limits wine sampling to three one-half ounce servings per customer per day. I don't know about you, but I have a hard time gauging the quality of a vinous beverage based on a one-half ounce sample. When I sample wine, I take a generous amount (an ounce or more) into my mouth and let it roll all over. A half-ounce sample is simply insufficient and would literally dissipate before I could complete my evaluation. The three-serving limit is also a problem. Consider the case in which you wish to compare several Chardonnays, say an unwooded Chardonnay, a classic California Chardonnay, a French Macon-Villages, and a Chilean Chardonnay. The three serving limit knocks one of these out of the tasting, and the one-half ounce serving makes it difficult to do side-by-side tastings of the remaining three contenders. I can see from my visits to area wine stores that the restrictuve laws have put the kibosh on any serious wine tastings.

Ohio's sampling laws are slightly more generous, allowing four two-ounce servings per customer per day. The two-ounce serving is nice, giving me the opportunity to fully evaluate a given sample. The four-serving limit is still somewhat restrictive.

I'm not sure what the state legislatures are striving for in passing restrictive laws. In the law cited above, Arkansas is certainly ensuring that no customer leaves the store inebriated from wine sampling, but it's also impinging on the store owner's ability to promote his or her products. Things are bound to get stickier as technology creeps into the retail wine trade. Automated tasting stations, first seen in Europe, are making their way into the United States. A typical tasting station allows a customer to insert a smart card into the station and taste one of eight wines, choosing a sample size ranging from one to four ounces. I think this is an interesting and inviting way to taste a wide range of wines, but I'm not sure how state laws will apply to such a system. I've toyed with the idea of opening a retail wine shop, and if I do, I'd like to install a wine automat, but you can be sure I'll pick a wine-friendly state before I make such an investment.

As for wine finds, here are a couple that I've enjoyed in the last few days:

Bogle 2005 Phantom Red Blend ~ $17.99 (Arkansas retail)

Big nose of bright cherry and raspberry fruits. Deep, rich dark fruit flavors end in a snappy finish with good acidity and chewy tannins. A blend of Petite Sirah, Old Vine Zinfandel, and Old Vine Mourvedre. Very drinkable now, but I think I'd put a bottle down for a year or two and try again.

Veramonte Primus Red Blend ~ $19.99 (Arkansas retail)

Incredibly smooth and velvety, with dark, ripe fruit flavors laced with earth and herb nuances. A blend of Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Rated 92 points by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

Wine Prospecting: Niche Shops Offer up Motherlode

2008-10-07T13:46:00.000-07:00

I like wine, so I'm constantly on the lookout for bottles I've enjoyed but can no longer find at my local wine shop. Some of my best finds have been in small shops or markets that don't necessarily specialize in wine, but that do have a rich and diverse wine selection. I stumbled into such a shop today.

Awakenings Coffee & Tea Company is located in Hyde Park Square in the Hyde Park neighborhood of Cincinnati. When I think of Awakenings, I'm usually thinking about the high-quality cup of coffee that I desperately need. I sold my house last week, so I've been living with family. They're decaf people, and I'm barely surviving. Since I needed a caffeine fix this morning, I went to Awakenings. Every time I walk into this place, I'm surprised by the opulent tasting bar and racks of wine that line the walls. I guess for me it's a coffee shop first and foremost. Anyway, as I nursed by House Blend, I browsed the racks and was amazed to see several of my favorites, including a 2003 Les Cailloux Chateauneuf-du-Pape and a 2004 Alto Moncayo. This stuff is no longer available in my local wine store, and the wholesale distributor has been out for months or years. It must get overlooked here. Lucky for me.

I travel a lot, and one of my favorite out-of-town leisure time activities is scouting out small markets for obscure wine finds. I hit paydirt one day while in Toledo visiting family. Sofo Foods is an excellent Italian grocer located on Monroe Street in Toledo. They have a small wine section, and they had a case stack of Layer Cake Shiraz. My local wine shop had depleted its stocks weeks or months ago, leaving me high and dry. I bought every last bottle Sofos had and quite happily shared them with friends back home.

If there's a moral to this story, I guess it's that that small, out of the way shop you never gave a second thought to might be harboring a long lost vintage you've been searching for. Happy hunting!

Setúbal, I hardly even knew ya!

2008-09-12T03:54:00.001-07:00

Several months ago I was at a charitable wine event, and I bid on (and won) a Silent Auction item, a nice aluminum outdoor party set. The set included a fire pit, a beer tub, and an ice bucket. Apparently as an afterthought, somebody “dressed up” the ice bucket by tossing in a half bottle of some rot-gut wine.

As I was unloading the set at home, I went to toss the wine into the trash, but curiosity got the best of me. The bottle was completely non-descript, but I was shocked to see a vintage label of 1965, a mere three years after I was born! The wine was loaded with sediment and didn’t look the least bit appealing. A quick search on Google convinced me that the wine merited more serious attention.

I was completely off base on this wine. It turns out it was a vintage 1965 bottle of José Maria da Fonseca Setúbal, a fortified dessert-style wine worthy of long-term aging. According to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine, the Fonseca winery holds stocks of this wine that date back to the mid 19^th century! I gave the bottle the space it deserved in my wine cellar.

I’m moving in a few weeks, so I’ve started packing/drinking my wine cellar. Dinner with friends seemed the perfect occasion to pop that old bottle of Setúbal. I store my wine on its side so the cork remains moist and the seal stays tight. With older wines like this, it’s a good idea to stand it upright several hours or days before opening so that the sedimentation settles to the bottom. Heavenly aromas hit us immediately upon opening. The cork was in excellent shape. The wine was deep amber in color, thick and viscous on the palate, with exceptional honeyed apricot and peach notes and a long, lingering finish. I served the wine with grilled peaches glazed with brown sugar-cinnamon, an absolutely heady pairing.

As the old saying goes, “never look a gift horse in the mouth”. While many, if not most, thirty-some year old wines will have turned to dust, some simply improve with age. If in doubt, check it out before you chuck it out.

Veramonte: Seriously Good Wine at Everyday Prices

2008-04-27T16:41:00.000-07:00

If you’ve been into Little Sonoma Fine Wines & Gourmet Foods, you know that I like the wines coming out of the Veramonte Winery. I like them a lot. Founder Agustin Huneeus is an icon in the international wine trade: CEO of Concha y Toro, partner at Franciscan in Napa Valley, creator of Chilean brands Caliterra and Errazuriz, and co-founder of Quintessa, a boutique Californian winery. This guy has the magic touch, and Veramonte is just another stop on what I hope is a long and prosperous journey.

Tonight I’m imbibing glasses of Veramonte 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva. Currently on sale in Ohio at $9.99 per bottle, this is an insane value! The nose is filled with gobs of fruit wrapped in warm cedar and oak notes. The fruit comes through on the palate, along with herb notes, oak nuances, and smooth, supple tannins. Really unbelievable flavor for the price. This is one of those wines that I have a very hard time putting down.

Veramonte’s other offerings are equally good. Here’s a quick look at a few I’ve tried:

Veramonte 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva

I’m a big fan of super-zesty Marlborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. One of my favorites is Kim Crawford, but at $17.99 per bottle, I can’t be draining one on a daily basis. Veramonte proves a suitable substitute. A big, boisterous nose of citrus and herbs leads into zesty citrus and grass flavors that really satisfy. Another huge bargain at the $9.99 per bottle sale price.

Veramonte 2006 Chardonnay Reserva

An easy-off screw cap closure makes this a no-brainer pick for upcoming Spring and Summer events. I get a lot banana and pineapple aromas and flavors gently touched with oak. Seriously good and seriously cheap.

Veramonte 2005 Primus

At the end of the day when we’re standing around the wine store wondering which of the 1000+ labels to drink, this one is always on the short list. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère, this is an elegant, smooth red wine that will appeal to a broad range of tastes. A steal at $17.99 the bottle.

You can purchase these wines (and many others) at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop”. Stop by and take a look around – we try to stock what the big box stores don’t.

Undiscovered Gems: Treasures of the Loire Valley

2008-04-14T16:52:00.000-07:00

I just finished filing my incomes taxes, and the phrase “taken to the cleaners” seems like an understatement. A normal reaction would be to pull back, tighten the belt, and save in order to restock the bank account. I’ve never been a fan of normal. Tonight, I’m anti-saving. I’ll sip on fine French wine, snack on French pâté spread over crusty olive bread, and nibble on French Raclette cheese.

[Tonight I’m thoroughly enjoying a magnifique Cabernet Franc from the Chinon appellation of France’s Loire Valley. The Marc Brédif 2005 Chinon is shy at first, with restrained notes of fruits, herbs, and minerals. It’s been opening up in the glass nicely, taking on more fruit tones and evolving into a fairly rich, medium-bodied wine with lip-smacking acidity. It’s pairing well with the pork pate, but not faring so well with the Raclette.]

The Loire Valley of France is home to dozens of wine appellations that seldom make headlines but nonetheless produce some surprisingly good wines. While notably famous for its Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre (both made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes) wines, it is also host to a wide range of white, rosé, and red wines worth consideration.

If you’re looking for a nice alternative to Pinot Grigio, try a white wine from the Vouvray appellation, where the Chenin Blanc grape is king. Wines from this region range in style from bone dry to fairly sweet, and you often must know the producer in order to know what style you are getting. Fresh, fruity, and light-bodied, the wines of Vouvray are nice summer sippers. Try the Chateau de Goulaine Vouvray, an off-dry wine with peach, pear, and citrus flavors.

Afraid to “drink pink”? Well, if you run across a Rosé d’Anjou, you should try it. These dry rosé wines from the Anjou appellation of Loire Valley are typically produced from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, and/or Grolleau (regional) grapes. Goulaine, the producer mentioned above, makes an elegant rosé d’Anjou that is full of enticing strawberry and raspberry fruit aromas and flavors.

If you’re a lover of Cabernet Franc, then you should know about the wines of Chinon. The red wines of Chinon are produced from Cabernet Franc and exhibit telltale aromas of violets. Medium-bodied and complex, they are perfect for pairing with a wide range of foods. I like the Marc Brédif Chinon. Charles Joguet is another excellent producer.

You can order these wines (and many others) at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop”. Stop by and visit with us and we’ll introduce you to a bevy of wine beauties.

Meritage: It Rhymes with Heritage

2008-03-30T16:58:00.000-07:00

Just to set the record straight, meritage rhymes with heritage. Before I stumbled into the wine trade, I used to pronounce meritage as ‘merit-tahzh’, which rhymes with mirage or massage. I “Frenchified” (no worries, it’s really a word, check it out on Wiktionary!) it, assuming it was of French origin. How wrong I was.

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight I’m sipping on a lovely Meritage, the Ironstone 2004 Reserve Meritage. It is an exceptional wine, which is somewhat of a shame, because now I’m forced to drink the entire bottle – bit of a lack of self-control, you see. Rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, this wine brims with blackberry jam flavors layered in rich, sweet oak. The finish is long and lovely, making this an exceptional pairing to the Beef Tenderloin steak that I cooked up tonight. The Ironstone Meritage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.]

Meritage is a word derived from the word merit and heritage, which helps one understand how it should be pronounced. Meritage is a registered trademark of The Meritage Association, and any wine that puts “meritage” on its label must license its use from the association. The word meritage on a label implies no guarantee as to the quality of the wine; it merely means that the wine is made up of two or more of the authorized varieties. There are many, many excellent blends that don’t subscribe to The Meritage Association. Here are a few excellent blended red wines you may wish to try:

Hahn Estates Meritage ~ $17.99
Hahn Estates was founded by Nicolaus Hahn, a Swiss businessman who fell in love with California wines in their nascent 1970s era. The Hahn Meritage is a classic Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec (leaving out only Carmenere, the least-used varietal in red Bordeaux wines). Nice blackberry flavors layered in toasty oak with a touch of vanilla.

Paoletti Vineyards Piccolo Cru ~ $15.99
While it doesn’t license Meritage, this is some fine juice! Produced from 100% estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec, this wine is outsized for its price. The fruit is sourced from vineyards on the Silverado Trail and in the Oak Knoll District. Ripe, dark fruit flavors are touched with earth, spice, herbs, and a bit of licorice.

You can find these wines and many other Meritage (and other) blends at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine store”. Stop by and we’ll set you up!

Resident Aliens: Unusual California Wine Varieties

2008-03-24T15:18:00.000-07:00

When you think of California wine, what varieties come to mind? If you’re like most of us, you think of Chardonnay and Cabernet, then drift off to Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and the other varieties commonly vinified in California. I like to say that winemaking is half art, half science. The winemakers are definitely artists, and as such, they have an artistic streak that leads them to explore. Several California winemakers are making terrific wine from non-traditional grape varieties. Here are a few to try:

2006 Saint Gregory Pinot Meunier ~ $17.99 (Ohio retail)
Pinot Meunier is a genetic variant of the Pinot Noir grape. Not commonly vinified as a single varietal, it is typically used in the production of Champagne and sparkling wines. Winemaker Gregory Graziano has done wonders with this grape, alchemizing it into a lush, viscous mouthful of wild strawberries and cherries. This is an exquisite wine that Pinot lovers must try.

2005 Luna Sangiovese ~ $24.99
I have been enjoying Luna’s spectacular Sangiovese for several years now. Sangiovese is typically found in Italy, where it is the primary component in Chianti. The Luna Sangiovese is rich and velvety, with lingering flavors. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gives it 90 points, well deserved.

Just a couple of picks to whet your appetite. If these selections sound interesting, then consider joining me at Little Sonoma the first Friday in April, when I’ll be conducting a tasting of “resident alien” wines. You can find these wines (and many, many more) at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop”. Stop by and visit with us and we’ll introduce you to a slew of new wines!

Going for the Green: What Wine Should I Drink on St. Patrick’s Day?

2008-03-16T10:24:00.000-07:00

Grüner (or “Green”) Veltliner, of course. Austria’s most commonly planted grape, this wine is seriously underappreciated. A star in the food-and-wine pairing arena, this wine will serve you well on a day when foods range from soda bread to potato soup to corned beef and cabbage. Grüner Veltliner, or GrüVe (“groovy”), has a perfumed nose and crisp, minerally flavors. Here are a few to try:

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Today I’ve got an individual vineyard Shiraz produced by Paringa of Australia. Imported by The Grateful Palate, this wine carries the name of David Hickenbotham, one of best grape growers in Australia. Rated 87 points by The Wine Advocate, this is a nice, everyday drinking wine with good body and pure fruit flavors.]

2006 Hirsch Grüner Veltliner #1 features a goofy looking deer on the label, an allusion to the fact that the German word Hirsch translates to the English word Deer. This one comes from the Kamptal region, one of the best growing areas for GrüVe. Fresh, ripe aromas and a pleasing texture make this one easy to like. Runs about $16.99 per bottle in Ohio.

2005 Laurenz und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner is the project of Laurenz Maria Moser V and his daughter, Sophie. These self-appointed ambassadors of GrüVe are singularly focused on introducing wine lovers to this spectacular varietal. Citrus and apple aromas mingle with spice and pepper. The smooth palate is filled with crisp citrus flavors enveloped in a nice medium-bodied texture. As the back label says, “…it goes with everything!” About $13.99 per bottle in Ohio.

You can find these wines at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine store”. Stop by and visit with us and we’ll introduce you to a slew of new wines!

Easter Comes Early This Year: What Will I Serve?

2008-03-10T17:54:00.000-07:00

Easter is sneaking up on us this year, falling on Sunday, March 23. Like me, you might be spending Easter Sunday with family and friends, and when we gather, we eat and we drink! Here are some wine ideas for pairing with traditional Easter fare.

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight I’m sipping on a wine I bought at close-out – be careful of bargains, because sometimes you get less than you’ve bargained for. Le Pigeoulet en Provence, made in the Vaucluse region in southeast France, contains Grenache. I wanted to use this wine as a “warm-up” to this weekend’s Spanish wine tasting at Little Sonoma, where we’ll be sipping on tasty Grenache wines from Spain. This one lacks the depth and complexity that I’ve come to expect from Grenache…maybe that’s why it was on close-out.]

Ham is likely one of the most popular dishes at Easter, and since the inception of the HoneyBaked Ham Company, its popularity has only risen. Last week I recommended Chenin Blanc as a nice alternative to Pinot Grigio for a white wedding wine. I’m going to keep harping on Chenin Blanc until people get out there and buy it and try it! Chenin Blanc will prove a tasty companion to sweet roasted ham. Here are a few wines that you may wish to enjoy with your Easter ham.

Ondine Chenin Blanc comes to us from South Africa, where it is produced from fruit harvested from 25-year old vines. Pleasant tropical fruit aromas (guava, passion fruit, etc.) lead into a rich palate of similar flavors. About $14 a bottle.

Pierre Sparr Gewurtztraminer Reserve comes from the Alsatian region of France. Rich exotic fruit aromas and flavors are accented by minerality. Elegant and refined, this is a very nice pairing to your sweet roasted ham. About $20 per bottle.

If you’re leaning towards lamb chops, perhaps you might enjoy a Spanish Rioja. For a reliable selection, pick up a bottle of Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva. Floral aromas lead into dried cherry components touched with smoke, herbs, and toasted wood. Around $28 per bottle. Pass the mint sauce!

If you’re going with Turkey, you can rest safe with the aforementioned Chenin Blanc or Gewurtztraminer, or you can venture off to a fruity red, perhaps a Georges Duboeuf Brouilly or a Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages. Either selection delivers fruity, floral aromas and flavors that make a nice accompaniment to roasted turkey. Priced in the $10 to $15 range.

If you’re taking a walk on the wild side (i.e., game, such as venison and the likes), why not check out a Pinotage from South Africa. We’ve had good success with the Sebeka Pinotage-Cabernet Sauvignon blend and the Pinecrest Pinotage. You could also go with a Pinot Noir (check out Hayman & Hill) or a nice Italian red blend (maybe Monte Antico).

That's all for now, happy sips this week. Spring springs forth next week, thank the gods! If you're in the neighborhood, stop by and visit me at my favorite wine shop, Little Sonoma, the "friendly wine shop".

Wedding Bells are Ringing: What Wines Should We Serve?

2008-03-02T19:15:00.000-08:00

Ah, the smell of spring is in the air and blissful thoughts of weddings come to mind. Friends and family gather to share that special moment. The flowers, the dresses, the catering – everything’s set. Then you realize you’ve forgotten the wine. Rest assured, young hearts, I’ve got the skinny for you.

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight I’ve got a hedonistic, massive red wine from Argentina, Clos de Los Siete 2006. Rated 92 points by Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate, this blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah will curl your toes with its rich, lush flavors. Reasonably priced at $16.99 and available in a 6-pack case, knocking the price down 10% (Ohio’s permitted “case discount”).]

You’ll probably want at least one white wine and one red wine. While sparkling wine is pretty much a given for the wedding party, you may want your guests to enjoy a sparkling wine too. Here are some ideas in each of these categories.

Pinot Grigio might be an easy pick for the white wine category, but it’s relatively uninspired. For an alternative that will please you and your guests, try a Chenin Blanc. There are some particularly good and reasonably priced Chenin Blanc wines coming out of South Africa. One of my favorites is the Ken Forrester Stellenbosch Petite Chenin Blanc. Priced at about ten dollars, this wine has fresh melon and lime flavors delivered in a pleasant, medium-bodied palate, making it suitable as an aperitif or paired with fish or chicken.

Along the same lines, but with a slight twist, check out Nederburg’s Lyric. This South African wine is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Running around ten dollars a bottle, it offers up bright peach and apricot flavors with a hint of sweetness.

Merlot, at first glance, appears to be the safe bet from a red wine perspective. Tread carefully, though, as there are literally hundreds of ho-hum Merlots out there. One you can count on comes from the White Rocket Wine Company, a new entity formed by Jess Jackson of Kendall-Jackson fame. Tin Roof Merlot comes in a hip, attractive package. The contents match the package, offering luscious black cherry flavors accented with hints of chocolate and spice. Big and rich and eminently pleasing, this wine will serve you well.

If you’re looking for a reasonably priced sparkling wine, you can’t do much better than the wines from Gruet Winery. A French Champagne-producer family had an epiphany while on vacation in New Mexico and founded Gruet Winery shortly thereafter. Gruet produces excellent sparkling wines in the Methode Champenoise, including a nice Brut, Rose, and Blanc de Noir. All are priced under twenty dollars per bottle.

You can find all of these wines at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine store”. Got the perfect “wedding wine”? Share it with us!

Spicy Food & Wine: What Goes Well With Burritos?

2008-02-25T14:46:00.000-08:00

I’m often asked about pairing food and wine. One question that comes up more than I would have anticipated is “What goes well with beef burritos/taco/chili?” My immediate thought is beer, but given that I’m a “wine guy”, I’ll delve deeper into my brain before answering.

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight I’ve got a luscious little beauty from Yalumba, Australia’s oldest family-owned winery. Yalumba’s Barossa Bush Vine Grenache is produced from 30 to 70-year old bush-trained vines, resulting in rich, intense flavors of plums, licorice, and spice. Yalumba produces loads of other wines worth mentioning, including the Eden Valley Wild Ferment Chardonnay, the Y Series Viognier, and a nice unwooded Chardonnay.]

In my experience, there are two ways you can go with spicy foods. You can strive to marry the spicy flavors with a spicy wine, or you can seek to contrast the spicy flavors with a sweeter-style wine. Here are some wine ideas for your spicy food fetish:

Peter Lehman 2005 Barossa Shiraz from Australia. Recently rated 91 points by Wine Spectator, this wine plays the line between spicy and sweet. There’s rich, sweet fruit, a bit of chocolately goodness, and a touch of spice on the finish. Pair this up with beef burritos, tacos, chili, or Indian fare. Also shows well with barbecued meats.

Hogue Late-harvest White Riesling from Washington State. Moderately sweet, with hints of complexity from Botrytis (“noble rot”). Tangerine and apricot flavors are accented with hints of powdered sugar. This wine pairs well with spicy Oriental take-out food.

PKNT (Picante) Carmenere from Chile. This is one of the most unusual wines I’ve tasted in recent memory. The label features a large, red chili pepper, indicative of the dominant flavor that you’ll get from this wine. This one works well with beef burritos and other spicy Mexican foods.

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carmenere from Chile. Similar to PKNT, but with less pronounced pepper flavors, this wine garnered 88 points from Wine Spectator. Pair it up with a variety of spicy foods.

You can find all of these wines at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine store”. Have you had any stellar cellaring experiences? Please share them with us!

Cellaring Wine: How Long Will My Wine Last?

2008-02-18T08:39:00.000-08:00

Most people “cellar” their wine for as long as it takes to get from the wine store to home. However, there is something magical about a properly cellared fine wine. Not all wines age well. In fact, most wines don’t age well, and some are produced to be enjoyed within a few months of release - French Beaujolais Nouveaux and Portuguese Vinho Verde come to mind.

[I am in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. However, I’ve been procrastinating lately, so it’s Monday morning, and I will not drink wine before noon – I do have some standards! A recent sip sticks in my memory, though. Clos de Los Siete, a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, is super rich and unbelievably smooth. Rated 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and priced at an unbelievable $16.99 per bottle, this is a killer value. I’m taking a bottle home tonight, and I’m drinking it, not cellaring it. I don’t think this one will stand up to the test of time.]

The ageability of a wine depends on a lot of factors, including the amount of tannins (from both the fruit and wood barrels), the type of grape(s), the level of acidity, and the amount of alcohol. Even if a given wine is capable of improving with age, the storage of said wine has a huge impact on how fast and how well it ages. The only real way to see how a particular wine is aging is to sample it. One of the best wine tips I ever received is if you like a certain wine, buy it by the case (or at least several bottles) and enjoy it as it progresses through its life cycle.

In general, it’s better to drink a wine too young (you can artificially “age” it through decanting or some other means) than to drink a wine that has passed its peak and is on the slippery downward slope to becoming undrinkable. Nothing worse than a long-cellared wine that, when opened, turns out to be an oxidized mess.

Here are a few cellaring ideas:

Fine French Bordeaux. The French have long produced wines high in natural acids and tannins, wines that demand time to develop into masterpieces of sensory pleasure. The 2004 vintage offers some values suitable for medium-term aging, maybe try the Chateau Clerc-Milon from Pauillac, a Cabernet-based blend.

Australian Shiraz. The last few vintages in Australia have been stellar. Penfolds Grange has long been famous for its ageability, but I’m banking on Ben Glaetzer’s Amon-Ra. Robert Parker (The Wine Advocate) estimates this wine can run to 2040, but that’s likely under ideal cellar conditions. I’ve got a few bottles I’ll put down for some time. At the low end of the scale, I like Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz. I’ve got some 2003 that tasting great, and I’ve put some 2004 down in the cellar.

Oregon Pinot Noir. Oregon is producing world-class Pinot Noir that I think stand up to Fine French Burgundy. The 2006 vintage of Rex Hill Pinot Noir is stunning and will develop over the course of the next ten years. I probably won’t have the fortitude to save it that long.

You can find all of these wines at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine store”. Have you had any stellar cellaring experiences? Please share them with us!

The Grapes Are Nearly Frozen: Is it Too Late to Harvest?

2008-02-12T07:39:00.000-08:00

I recently enjoyed a glass of Hogue Cellars Late Harvest White Riesling, and it reminded me of how delicious “late harvest” wines can be. Late harvest wines are wines made from grapes that hang on the vine long after the traditional harvest time. The grapes build up high levels of natural sugars, often magnified by the influence of Botrytis, or “noble rot”. The result is often a rich, viscous wine with heady flavors, a moderate to high level of sweetness, and a certain air of luxury.

[I’m in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog, but I procrastinated, and it’s ten o’clock on Tuesday morning, so I think I’ll pass!]

Late harvest wine, while a recent trend in the new world, have a long history in Europe. Germany has been producing late harvest (Spätlese, Auslese, and so on) Riesling for centuries and France is famous for its Sauternes, most notably Chateau d’Yquem. The ultimate culmination of late harvest is ice wine, produced from grapes that have literally frozen on the vine.

The new-world wine regions of the United States, Australia, and South America are producing notable late harvest wines. I’ve tried several of them. Here are a few for your consideration:

Hogue Cellars Late Harvest White Riesling ~ Washington State

Moderately sweet, with nice viscosity balanced with crisp acidity. Nice tropical fruit flavors of tangerine, apricot, and pineapple. Pair with apple crisp or fruit tart. As a side note, “White Riesling” is a synonym for Riesling, the wine for which Germany is famous.

EOS Tears of Dew Late Harvest Moscato ~ California

Tears of Dew wins wine competition awards year-in and year-out. All of the recent vintages have been rated in the 90s by the major wine publications. Peach and apricot aromas waft up from the glass, and similar flavors coat the tongue. This wine is sweet enough to stand on its own or can be paired up with peach crisp or other fruit-inspired desserts. Moscato is an Italian synonym for the Muscat grape.

Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ~ Chile

Botrytis-infected grapes give this wine a distinctive honey character that melds well with nuances of raisins, apricots, and orange zest. Pair with strong cheeses or enjoy on its own.

Need a hand picking out some late-harvest wines to try? Stop by my favorite store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop” and ask for their recommendations. If you’re a Wine Enthusiast looking for a fun, part-time job, they’re looking for help.

Corkage Fee: Reality or Rip-off?

2008-02-03T14:17:00.001-08:00

A Corkage Fee is a fee that some establishments charge for the privilege of allowing you to open and drink your own bottle of wine. You typically encounter corkage fees at restaurants, but you also might run into them at other dining and entertainment venues. From the consumer’s point of view, it can seem like a rip-off, but there are compelling reasons that proprietors institute such a charge.

[I’m in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight, I’m sipping on a glass of Boarding Pass Shiraz, an amazing wine made at R Wines by the amazing Australian winemaker, Chris Ringland. Anytime you see “R Winery” or “Imported by The Grateful Palate” on the back label of a bottle of wine, you can be sure that you’re in for a rich, rewarding experience. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate rates the 2005 Boarding Pass Shiraz 92 points, saying “…offers a remarkably long finish for its humble price”. Priced at $18.99 retail, and available at my favorite wine shop, Little Sonoma.]

Proprietors charge a corkage fee for several reasons. First, many invest time and energy into developing an extensive and imaginative wine list, and they would prefer you choose from their selections, largely because they make a profit on each bottle sold. Typical markups are 2-3 times the retail bottle price, but it can be 4 times or more. Next, the corkage fee covers the services of your wait staff, the person or persons who keep the glass filled. Corkage fees also help offset stemware expense, both from a dishwashing perspective and a breakage perspective.

Some discussion of etiquette is in order. If you do find a restaurant or entertainment establishment that allows you to bring in your own bottle of wine (simply call and ask them), keep these points of courtesy in mind:

Inquire about the corkage fee before arriving at the restaurant so that you won’t be surprised.
Don’t bring a wine that is on the restaurant’s wine list, a major faux pas!
Don’t bring a cheap wine. If you are going to the trouble of bringing in your own wine, make sure it’s something special. Give some consideration to the meal when selecting the wine.
Offer the wine steward/sommelier a taste. It’s a common courtesy and will be appreciated.
If you have the drinking capacity, consider purchasing a bottle from the restaurant’s wine list. You’ll garner goodwill from your server.
When calculating the tip, calculate it as if you purchased the bottle at the restaurant, estimating its cost and reduced by the corkage fee. The server had to perform wine services without the benefit of the added ticket revenue.

I think corkage fees are warranted, given that they’re reasonable. There are some restaurants, primarily on the coasts, that charge exorbitant fees ($50-$75 is not unheard of) as a means of discouraging you from bringing your own bottle of wine. Corkage fees can be as low as $5, but typically range from $10-$20. Considering restaurant markups on wine, a reasonable corkage fee is really a bargain.

My favorite store, Little Sonoma, is also a “wine bar”. Little Sonoma has an Ohio “D2” liquor license that permits on-premise consumption of wine. If you would like to visit Little Sonoma and enjoy a bottle of wine, they will charge you a reasonable $5 “service fee”. The fee is intended to cover the cost of stemware washing and breakage. Please note that state law does not allow you to bring your own bottle of wine into Little Sonoma, but you can choose from their extensive selection, buy it at the retail price, and drink it on the premises.

The $40 Bottle: Is it Worth It?

2008-01-27T16:24:00.000-08:00

Assume we have two bottles of wine of similar character and type, both rated 92 points by Wine Spectator. One bottle costs $19.99, the other $39.99. Since they’re both rated the same, is the second bottle worth the extra twenty bucks? Is it really twice as good as the first wine?

[I’m in the habit enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight, I’m sipping on a glass of Cline California Zinfandel, a decidedly not $40 bottle, retailing for about $12. Good stuff, though, and hopefully a good pairing with the Turkey Tetrazzini that’s in the oven.]

Sometimes, but not always, the more expensive wine is more intense, richer, more concentrated, with deeper and more complex flavors. That wasn’t the case for last night’s $40 bottle…I felt ripped off. There’s really no way to know whether a given $40 bottle (or $50, or whatever price) is worth it without giving it a try. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.

A lot of factors figure into the cost of producing a bottle of wine. Stuff like the cost of grapes or finished juice, property prices, energy costs, fertilizer costs, and various distribution costs, including advertising and marketing. A separate set of factors influence the retail price of a bottle of wine. Currency exchange rates, competition, industry ratings, reputation, and supply and demand all figure into price.

I’m at a loss to understand wine pricing. I’ve had $40 bottles that taste like they should have sold for $10, and I’ve had $10 bottles that were easily worth twice the price. Maybe wine producers sit around and dream up a price that sounds good. I really don’t know. I just keep plugging along, trying wines along the entire pricing spectrum. Sometimes I get lucky, and sometimes I don’t.

If you want to take a gamble, why not try a wine priced roughly twice as much as you would normally enjoy? Stop by my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, and we’ll hook you up with a good bottle of juice.

Would you like to work part-time in a wine store? Little Sonoma REALLY needs part-time help. Restrictions apply, check store for details.

A Disjointed Wine Question: Is it Dry?

2008-01-20T17:08:00.000-08:00

Sometimes when I make a wine recommendation, people ask, “Is it dry?” The answer more often than not is “Yes”. But I’m not sure it’s the right question. I think what people really want to know is whether the wine is bitter. Dryness (or more appropriately, sweetness) and bitterness are two different wine characteristics that are best viewed separately.

[I’m in the habit of enjoying a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight, I’m sipping on a glass of Alamos Malbec, an excellent everyday wine from Mendoza, Argentina. While this wine is dry (less than 2 grams of sugar per liter), it is definitely not bitter. Ten bucks a bottle, definitely worth a try.]

The sweetness of a wine is typically expressed as a measure of Residual Sugar, i.e., the amount of sugar that remains in the wine after fermentation has stopped. The higher the level of residual sugar the sweeter the wine. Conversely, wines with very low levels of residual sugar are classified as “dry”, or “not sweet”. A dry wine won’t necessarily be a bitter wine. The vast majority of red wines are dry, but many are full of rich, lush fruit flavors, fending off any bitterness.

Bitterness in a wine typically comes from tannins and acids. Tannins come from the grape skins, stems, and seeds, and from the wooden barrels used for aging. Acids are naturally occurring organic compounds found in all wines. If a wine is tannic, perhaps because it is still very young or wasn’t made well, it will taste bitter. Wines that are very acidic can taste sour or bitter. In general, wines from “old-world” countries such as Italy and France will taste bitterer than wines from “new-world” countries such as the United States and Australia. On the plus side, wines that are more tannic or have greater acidity can typically be cellared longer than those with less tannins or acidity.

You can tame a tannic wine by aging it. Lay it down for several years or decant it before drinking. Acidic wines often taste better when paired with acidic foods. Sangiovese (or Chianti, which is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape) is a high-acid wine that pairs marvelously with high-acid tomato sauced dishes.

If you’ve steered away from red wine because you thought it was too “dry”, why not take a chance and try a rich, smooth red wine like Alamos Malbec? If you’ve stayed away from Sauvignon Blanc (my favorite is Kim Crawford from New Zealand) because it was too acidic, try pairing it up with a high-acid food like goat cheese. If you’re not a Cabernet Sauvignon lover, why not try a high-quality, well-aged Cabernet or French Bordeaux?

Need a hand picking out some wines to experiment with? Stop by my favorite store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop” and ask for their recommendations. If you’re a Wine Enthusiast looking for a fun, part-time job, they’re looking for help.

Wine Preservation: A Moot Point?

2008-01-13T18:55:00.000-08:00

People often ask me how long (i.e., how many days) they can enjoy a bottle of wine once it’s been opened. Personally, I don’t see the point. I’ve never met an open bottle I didn’t finish. But for the sake of intelligent discussion, let’s assume that wine preservation is not a moot point.

(It is my habit to enjoy a glass of wine as I write this blog. Tonight, I’m sipping on a glass of Chalk Hill’s Imagine Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine I wrote about in my very first blog. I ask the reader’s forgiveness if the blog suffers any ill effects)

There are dozens of products in the marketplace designed to preserve the freshness and quality of an open bottle of wine. Most of these products work by removing the oxygen from the empty portion of an opened bottle. Oxygen oxidizes wine, aging it and causing it to lose its freshness. Too much oxygen (or air, in this case) for too long kills the wine. There’s nothing sadder than a half-empty bottle of wine gone to seed.

The Vacu Vin Vacuum Wine Saver is the first preservation device that I remember seeing. The Vacu Vin is an air pump evacuator that sucks the air out of the empty portion of an open bottle and re-seals the bottle with a food-safe thermoplastic elastomer stopper. Vacu Vin’s website indicates that the Vacuum Wine Saver might preserve the wine for a period from two days to two weeks. The Vacu Vin wine saver retails for about twenty bucks. There are many imitators, but I think Vacu Vin was first to the table with the air evacuation thing.

Another approach is to force the air out and replace it with a heavier-than-air inert gas, such as nitrogen or argon. The first time I encountered this technique was when a wine distributor showed up at the wine shop with a can of Private Preserve. Private Preserve is a mixture of inert gases (nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and argon) that comes in a convenient, easy-to-use aerosol can. A few sprays into an open bottle puts down a blanket of heavier-than-air, inert gas over the wine, preventing the oxygen from reaching the juice. A can of this stuff costs about ten bucks and is good for about one hundred bottles. There are several competing products that sell for about the same price. Wineries use inert gases in tanks and barrels as a preservative, and most wine bars have a wine dispensing system based on inert gas (the Cruvinet is one I see often).

There are a couple of low-tech methods that I use in the rare event that I don’t finish a bottle that I’ve opened. My preferred method of wine preservation is to pound the cork back into the opened bottle, then put the bottle into the refrigerator (yes, even the red wines!) - the cool temperature slows oxidation. Sometimes I pour the remaining wine into a smaller container (preferably an empty half-bottle), thereby reducing the ratio of air to wine, then stick it in the refrigerator. In either case, I strive to drink the remaining wine the next day before it has a chance to lose too much freshness.

I’m sure I’ve missed dozens of wine preservation approaches, and I’d be grateful if you would share yours. If you haven’t given it much thought up until now, then I encourage you stop into my favorite store, Little Sonoma, the “friendly wine shop”, and take a look at their wine preservation offerings. If you’re a Wine Enthusiast and you’re looking for a fun, part-time job, I’ve been told they’re looking for help.

Sweet Red Wines: Fact or Fiction?

2008-01-06T19:10:00.001-08:00

People occasionally ask me for a suggestion for a sweet red wine. My immediate reaction is to suggest beer as a suitable alternative, but then I realize they might resort to Boone’s Farm or one of the myriad other “flavored wine” products.” I don’t object to sweet red wine per se, just the sickly sweet beverage variants passed off as wine. When approached carefully, sweet red wine can be a many-splendored thing.

For the point of this discussion, I’ll define sweet wine as wine with some residual sugar left in it after the fermentation process is complete. By contrast, dry wine is wine in which nearly all of the grape sugars are converted to alcohol during the fermentation process.

It’s not unusual to find sweet white wines. Riesling, Muscat/Moscato, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, and many other grape varieties are often vinified to produce sweet or semi-sweet white wine. Sweet red wines, on the other hand, are the odd bird. If you are looking for an authentic sweet red wine, I offer up a couple of suggestions for your tasting pleasure.

Dornfelder, developed and primarily grown in Germany, is a dark red grape variety that produces somewhat sweet red wine. Its rich, full-bodied red plum fruit flavors are especially suited to pairing with spicy Asian dishes rather than traditional desserts. Dornfelder can be served slightly chilled (60-65 degrees). One of my favorites is Villa Karlbach Dornfelder Max.

Red Malvasia (Malvasia Nera) from the Piedmont region of Italy - specifically, Malvasia di Casorzo. This grape variety is sometimes vinified into a sweet, slightly fizzy red wine. Although a bit difficult to find, it is worth the search. My favorite is La Sera Red Malvasia from Matt Brothers Importers. Sip it slightly chilled as a dessert wine, or pair it up with spicy foods for a nice treat.

These wines and many, many more are available at my favorite wine store, Little Sonoma, the "friendly wine shop." Stop by Little Sonoma, pick up a sweet red wine, and pair it up with some spicy Indian food - you'll be glad you did!

Altruistic Drinking: Does it get any better than this?

2008-01-01T15:59:00.002-08:00

Altruistic Drinking. I never imagined the day when my wine drinking could benefit my fellow man. I’m not talking about those rare times when I actually share a bottle rather than scurrying off to the corner to savor it for myself. I’m talking about a trend in the wine industry, a trend that I hope continues far into the future.

Imagine a world where you benefit those in need by enjoying a bottle of wine. If you’ve tried Chalk Hill Estate’s Imagine Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay, then you’re already part of such a grand scheme. Same thing goes for countless other wineries, including (but not limited to) Two Brothers Winery, Cline Cellars, Ehlers Estate, and Humanitas Winery. These wineries contribute all or a portion of their proceeds to charitable causes.

The trend probably isn’t that new. The Hospices de Beaune, a French hospital-cum-charitable organization, was founded in the 1400s and continues to this day, supporting the poor through its annual wine auction. In addition to charitable wineries, we add charity wine auctions (the Napa Valley Wine Auction is the largest in North America), charity wine tastings, charitable wine festivals (the Naples Winter Wine Festival is the most successful in the world), and various charitable wine-related dinners and events, and you’ve got a juggernaut of good coming down the pike! You can do your part to support the cause – drink a bottle of wine, attend a charity auction, festival or tasting, or host your own wine-related charity event. Let’s get this New Year started on the right foot.

The details:

Chalk Hill Estate’s Imagine Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are produced from fruit sourced from the Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of each bottle will be added to the ongoing efforts of the family's personal goal of helping disadvantaged children. The family supports various charitable organizations through its Furth Family Foundation

Cline Cellars Cashmere is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre. A portion of the proceeds from every bottle sold will be donated to local charities benefiting children.

Ehlers Estate is a non-profit entity/winery supporting international cardiovascular research. They make killer Merlot and mean Cabernet.

The Humanitas Winery donates the profits from sales of their wines to charities supporting hunger, affordable housing, and illiteracy.

Two Brothers Winery donate a portion of the proceeds from wine sales to various breast cancer research foundations. They make an excellent Cabernet-Syrah blend from Chile and a great Riesling from Germany.

The wines I've mentioned (and many, many more) are available at my favorite store, Little Sonoma Fine Wines & Gourmet Foods, the “friendly wine store”. Stop by Little Sonoma to learn more about hosting a wine event for your favorite charity.